Project hub

Renovate a Room

One measuring session, then drywall or plaster, paint or wallpaper, flooring and trim — the calculators in the order the work happens.

Renovations rarely fail on any single skill — they fail on order and on measurement. Painting after the new floor is down, buying wallpaper before checking the pattern repeat, ordering flooring by floor area and forgetting the waste a diagonal layout adds: these are the mistakes that turn a weekend into a month. The fix is boring and effective: measure once, properly, then run every takeoff from the same numbers in the same order the work will happen.

That's this hub. One measuring session — floor area, perimeter, each wall's net area with doors and windows deducted, ceiling height — feeds every calculator on the page. Drywall or plaster comes first because surfaces set the finish, paint or wallpaper next, flooring after the wet and messy work is done, trim last. Skip what doesn't apply; the sequence holds.

The plan below is the typical order for a full cosmetic renovation. It's deliberately opinionated about sequence and deliberately silent on structural work, electrics and plumbing — the honesty section explains where those lines sit, and why older buildings deserve extra caution before anything gets disturbed.

The Plan

  1. Measure once, write it all down. Floor area, perimeter, each wall's area minus openings, ceiling height and the door and window positions. Every calculator below runs from these numbers — measuring twice is fine, measuring again later is the mistake.
  2. Clear and assess. Strip coverings and fittings, then look at what's revealed: loose plaster, damaged boards, and anything that suggests a problem behind the surface. Find out what's in the walls before cutting into them — cables and pipes rarely appear on any plan.
  3. Do the wet work: drywall or plaster. Stud walls take sheet counts, screws, tape and joint compound; solid walls take render or plaster coats by area and thickness. This is the dusty stage — it belongs before any finish.
  4. Paint or wallpaper. Paint is area times coats with openings deducted; wallpaper is strips, rolls and pattern repeat — a bold repeat can add a roll or two, and the calculator accounts for it.
  5. Lay the flooring. Boxes come from room area plus waste by layout: typically 7% straight-laid, 12% diagonal, 15% herringbone, with underlay at area plus a small allowance.
  6. Trim and finish. Skirting and architrave by running length with a waste allowance for cuts, then the touch-up paint that every trim installation earns.

Calculators for This Project

Guides Worth Reading

What This Hub Doesn't Cover

This is the cosmetic hub. Structural walls, the causes behind damp stains — fix the cause, not the plaster — and any electrical or plumbing work inside the walls are qualified-trades territory. Older buildings add a layer of caution: lead-based paint and asbestos-containing materials were used in some countries well into the 1970s and beyond, so if the building's era suggests it, have suspect surfaces tested before disturbing them and use licensed removal where required. Local rules on renovation waste and listed or protected buildings vary too. The calculators here count clean materials onto sound surfaces — they don't tell you whether the surface is sound.

Frequently Asked Questions

What order should I renovate a room in?

Top to bottom, messy before clean: strip and repair surfaces, then drywall or plaster, then paint or wallpaper, then flooring, then trim. Each stage protects the one before it — flooring laid before painting collects drips, and trim fitted before the walls are flat fights the walls.

How much paint for a 4 × 5 m room?

Perimeter 18 m at a 2.4 m ceiling is 43.2 m² of wall, minus about 3 m² of door and window leaves roughly 40 m². Two coats at typical emulsion coverage of 10–12 m² per litre works out to about 7–8 litres. The paint calculator deducts openings and adjusts coats.

Should I paint before or after new flooring goes down?

Typical practice is paint first: walls and ceiling before the new floor is laid, so drips and roller splatter land on the old floor, with touch-ups after the trim is fitted. The exception is paint that needs a sealed, dust-free room — sequence around your own tolerance for rework.

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